Celeste Ray: Paying the Rounds at Ireland’s Holy Wells

Abstract. – Anthropological analyses of pilgrimage and popular religiosity have given scant attention to transgenerational patterns in localized, unofficial liturgies. Broadening Gwen Neville’s concept of “folk liturgy,” this essay considers the sociospatial dialectic between liturgy, landscape and community at Ireland’s holy wells. Often dedicated to unofficial and territorial “saints,” wells preside over thaumaturgical landscapes that incorporate prehistoric sites, sacred trees and rocks as “stations” for prayer. Called “paying the rounds,” the structured visitations of stations constitute liturgies unique to the physical attributes of each site. Localized “rounding” at holy wells contests many anthropological conventions about the process of pilgrimage. [Ireland, holy well, folk liturgy, sacred landscapes, saint cults]