Sabira Ståhlberg and Ingvar Svanberg: How Many Pärämäts Can You Eat? Tatar Identity, Memories, Comfort, and Commensality in the Diaspora
Abstract
“How many pärämäts can you eat?” When Tatars meet, this question is asked not only to compare stomach capacity: by triggering pleasant food memories with a high degree of commensality, they confirm a common identity and cultural bonds that Tatars and especially Mishär Tatars share internationally. Pärämäts, pärämäç, peremets, peremech, or even bälesh – this favourite food carries many names and variations. The round, fried or oven-baked pastries can be filled with meat or potatoes, cheese, quark, mushrooms or vegetables. The pastries are usually prepared and eaten by many people together; guests and children frequently participate in the cooking process. Until a few decades ago, pärämäts was a common snack, breakfast or dinner, and prepared very often, but today it is mostly part of the Tatar menu for guests, celebrations, and festive occasions. At least in Finland and Russia, the pastry has also become a commercial bakery product and street food.
[Tatars, culinary nostalgia, ethnic food, food identity-building, gastronomy, nutritional anthropology, traditional food knowledge]
